We have been guests in Lofoten so often and are fascinated by the moods of the water and the beauty of nature every time. This winter we were on the islands a little earlier than usual and could do the classics as well as some new beautiful tours. We reached Svolvær in the early evening, just right for a little walk through the village after checking in. Svolvær is a typical Norwegian fishing port and you immediately feel at home between the many small and large ships. We head for our favourite pub, the Bacalao, which is located directly on the quay. A pleasant warmth comes from the fireplace and we enjoy a freshly tapped beer that puts us in the right mood for dinner. It is still getting dark early here, but soon the days will be longer, because the arctic spring is already around the corner. After dinner everyone is lying in their beds quite fast, because it was a long day.
Reaching the height of 1,085 metres, Geitgaljen is the highest ski mountain in Lofoten. There is the slightly higher peak of Higravstinden directly to the north, but unfortunately this is not a ski mountain. This morning we start very early for once, because the weather forecast is that we are not the only ones with this goal. The Geitgaljen is the paradeskitour on the Lofoten and actually the only one of this caliber, at least if you are without a boat. We decide for the somewhat longer eastern variant in the ascent, in order to have a look into the south colouir and because I don't like the normal route because of an unpleasant trip at the beginning of the route. The whole mountain is still completely unspurred, actually logical after 3 days of bad weather. There wasn't much fresh snow, but the first day after.
The ascent over the east side has several rope passages and leads first through a 35° steep Colouir into a cauldron.
First of all, those who expect total loneliness should come to Lofoten during the dark season or very late. From the middle of March there is a lot going on here and there are many ski tour groups on the well known tours. Therefore one should have a good plan when starting in the morning and if possible also plan B,C and D. The nice thing about ski tours so far north is that you can simply take your time in the morning and not have to be down again shortly after noon, as in the Alps, otherwise it gets too warm. However, many of the guests here have not yet understood this and so one can also work a little anti-cyclically here.
The first three days of our stay the weather conditions were rather modest and we were content with shorter tours and explored the surroundings. If you are interested in the history of the Vikings, a trip to Borg can be very interesting. There a rather large building complex was erected to the topic. For surfers the beach and the surf station Unstad is a must. Besides, there are the best cinemon rolls in Northern Europe in the super cool cafe. The cappuccino is also very good, but be careful - take off your shoes - before you get comfortable in the lounge.
The mountain world here is wild and of unique beauty, for me one of the most beautiful places on Lofoten, a truly magical place. In this environment we continue to climb over another steep step up to the ridge that leads us to the summit.
We buckle the skis onto the backpack and over the last, 40° steep short slope we reach the summit. Here the crampons are necessary. Meanwhile, we are no longer the only ones on the mountain, over the normal way, some people come up, whereby most of them do not go to the summit, but directly add the south colouir. Actually, we had planned the descent over the Südcouloir, but as this descent does not offer much space and in the upper part quickly becomes a mogul slope, we decide for another variant.
The crowning finish
So we start with the skis directly from the summit and drive over a saddle into the eastern flank. With the exception of our ascent track, the huge slope is completely untracked. We enjoy almost 500 meters of finest powder snow and stop only once shortly before a steep step. In the further course it goes on at impressive and icy rock walls up to the broad Couloir, which leads us at the end by a light forest down to the water. From here we walk along the shore back to the starting point. This was definitely one of the most beautiful downhill routes on the whole of Lofoten, over 1,000 metres of first-class ski terrain, mostly around 35° and rarely flatter than 30°.